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Indian Crafts >> Ikat
Ikat
Indian Crafts - Ikat
History of Ikat

Ikat is supposed to be of Malayan origin but actually the name was given to the technique by Indonesians. Ikat is equivalent of the Indian bandhana. The textile that is traditionally the pride of this region is the saktapr sari, with its double ikot chequerboard pattern and brocaded border of rudraksha bead compositions.
Fine Art
Orissa has a patola style of its own. The designs usually are in floral patterns, with animals and certain traditional motifs like fish conch. The cotton ikats in Orissa are fabulous with firm accent on the geometrical patterns in heavy waves. One of the most popular motifs used in the fabrics is the Gaja (elephant) particularly in Khandua (odhni) used by brides atmarriage time. Large and small stars, elephant, deer, parrot, nabagunjara, lotus and other flowers, creeper, kumbha (small triangles), danti (tooth-like) patterns have been used in silk and cotton fabrics.
Procedure
The term ikat steams from the Malay Indonesian expression mangikat, meaning to bind, knot or wind around. In principle, ikat or resist dying involves the sequence of typing (or wrapping) and dyeing sections of bundles yarn to a predetermined colour scheme prior to weaving. Thus, the dye penetrates into the exposed sections, while the tied sections remain undyed. The patterns formed by this process on the yarn are then woven into fabrics. In ikat technique, which is also called tie and dye technique, the designs in various colours are formed on a fabrics either by warp threads or weft threads (single ikat) or by both (double ikat). In single ikat fabrics, the warp or weft threads which are tied and dyed as per design are to be positioned accurately in proper sequence in weaving as required by the design and colour scheme. In case of double ikat fabrics, not only warp and weft threads which are tied and dyed as per design should be individually positioned in proper sequence, but the relative position of each warp threads and weft thread forming the design should be accurately ensured. In these textile, forms are deliberately feathered so that their edges appear hazy and fragile. This effect is achieved by the use of very fine count yarn, tied and dyed in very small sets. In tie and dye process, increased number of colours used in bringing out figures increases the number of tying and dyeing. If the designs are all over and connected with each other in some way, by tie and dye links, all the picks in fabric may have to be tied and dyed.
Resources
Basic Material : Tussar silk, ikat, thread, yarn
Colouring Material : Vegetable dyes, synthetic dyes
Artifacts
Saris, fabric for dresses, furnishing and household linen, patolas, khandua (odani), cushion covers

Indian Crafts : History of Ikat