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Indian Crafts >> Hand-printed Clothes
Hand-printed Clothes
Indian Crafts - Hand-printed Clothes
History of Hand-printed Clothes

The origin of printing in India is hard to trace, but we know that it existed in the pre-christian era and records show that printed goods from India had started going to west more than a thousand years ago. It can be concluded that before the invention of blocks, all repeat patterned fabrics were produced by resist dyeing process.
Fine Art
The hand-printed clothes are vigorous in design, which are done with vegetable dyes, for example, the jawad prints. Nandana prints are traditional prints in fast colours, that were earlier used by villagers and tribals of the Nimar area, but are now being used on bed-spreads, table cloths, upholstery and garments. Jajams, quilt covers, bedcovers, lungis, odhnis etc. are printed in traditional designs.
Procedure
The cloth is first softened by castor oil and an alkali. The outline for the printing is done in ochre solution and block-printed with alum paste, which turns this area red. This colour is then blacked off by a mixture of wax, linseed oil and resin. The rest is dyed in indigo and a solution of gum paste and alum is applied to make it resist the red and white parts of the design. The dyeing is done in alizarine and the local sakkur print is used to stop colours running. Finally, it is immersed in a pomegranate rind solution, which turns the white into yellow and the blue into a greenish black.
Resources
Basic Material : Resist dye, rogan, caster oil, alkali, ochre solution, alum paste, wax, linseed oil, resin, indigo, gum, alizarin, pomegranate rind solution, lac, iron,grey & malmal cloth, acids, bleaching powder, turkey red oxide, tracing papers
Colouring Material : Vegetable natural dyes like indigo, turmeric roots, pomegranate skin
Artifacts
Jajams (floor-coverings), angucha, abotiya (scarf like odhni), quilts or razais, odhnis, nandana prints, bed-spreads, lugda, sarees, dress - material, table cloths, pillow covers

Indian Crafts : History of Hand-printed Clothes